Montpellier (pop. 229,000) is a fascinating pastiche of all the architectural eras of France -- medieval structures stand next to 18th-century buildings and free-form modern designs. The Antigone District has neoclassical architecture that people either love or hate. The city also boasts an 18th-century water tower, an elegant aqueduct, the oldest botanical gardens in the country (first planted in 1593) and wonderful old streets lined with tall, slender houses. The region requires a minimum of two nights to see. Take a day trip to the museum town of Pezenas, about 40 mi/64 km southwest, to see its elegant Gothic houses and buildings (get the map issued by the local Syndicat d'Initiative office). A side trip is recommended to Le Couvertiorade (a fortified medieval village that's still inhabited). You can also take a day trip to Gorges-du-Tarn and the Aven-Amand cave.